I had read for a long time about Scottish bothys and wanted to include a bothy stay in our highlands trip. They seemed so adventurous and romantic to me: hiking long days with your pack to stumble upon a perfectly placed hut for a night’s stay!
I realised that the reality wasn’t quite like that, and being not so experienced with multi-day walks and maps we chose the Glen Feshie bothy – officially called Ruigh Aiteachain – for our first experience. It was ideal because it seemed a direct walk to find the hut with no compass skills required. It definitely wasn’t chosen because this was rumoured to be the best bothy around… honest 😉 ! ).
The Glen Feshie estate has a free public car park. Drive on about 1km from Achlean (coming from Aviemore direction) and you’ll find it easily. The cones leading up to the car park suggested that it could get busy but we were there mid week when there was ample space.
We spent a while organising our belongings: how cold was it going to get? What was our back up plan if the bothy was full? How much water did we need?
In case you are a novice like us, know that it is always wise to take a tent or bivvy as a back up in case you can’t reach your bothy or it’s already occupied. Each bothy requires you to take your own sleeping bag, mat etc and usually ample water to drink/cook, although Ruigh Aitechain actually does have a fresh water stream supply. You can find details on each bothy and what to expect in dedicated guide books available in the main towns or by searching online.
The 5 mile walk in is simple. There is a track heading out of the car park, which you take to then go through the estate gate. The bothy is usually signposted whenever the track splits (I have posted photos below wherever this is questionable). The only tricky terrain is crossing the river – apparently there used to be a bridge here which was wiped out by an avalanche, evidence of which you will see on the walk. Instead, you now need to climb down to the river via the rocks, through it and then back up the other side. Quite a feat with bags but do-able if you’re fit enough to do this walk!
When we got to the bothy there was only one couple already there. Quiet, considering it was already late afternoon. The occupants were two crazy trail cyclists who seemed to embrace adventure even more than we do! There were two kitchen areas focused around the stove and they were unpacked in one of them and so we took the other. Perfect.
We took cups of teas outside to chill out and cool down after the hot hike and OH MY GOSH! I CANNOT STRESS HOW BAD THE MIDGES ARE HERE. It’s not even a swarm, it’s more of an attack! We came running back in, all windows and doors closed tight.
As we started cooking another couple then appeared. Local, and therefore used to the midges, they were super relaxed and had made the walk in after work – the ultimate ‘5 to 9 adventure’rs! There was still plenty of room upstairs for the newcomers so they settled in.
I really enjoyed everyone chatting and unpacking their belongings; seeing what food they had bought and what alcohol they deemed essential! We sat and ate dinner, had a couple of drinks and shared stories together. It was lovely – real festival vibes and a great way to relax post hike.
Late in the evening the door burst open and three cyclists rushed in in a midge-induced panic! They had planned to sleep in their tent but couldn’t stand the biting. There was still plenty of room upstairs so they bundled in too. We now had 9 people and 1 dog sharing the space, with plenty of room left. I’m not sure all bothies are this spacious.
Morning came and the midges returned. Luckily they can’t get you whilst you walk and so we gradually packed up and left group by group, cleaning and sweeping up before we went as bothy etiquette dictates.
As usual the walk back seemed to be much quicker than when we were doing it yesterday and we were soon collapsed outside the van. Sweaty and happy! Next time, we will incorporate a bothy as a longer walk (which really is the aim of them, rather than as a focal point of your journey!), or a point to point walk over a few days.
I’d really recommend a bothy stay to anyone who is curious about them as a introduction to longer walking, bigger adventures and a great way to meet likeminded people. Just remember, not all of them are decked out like an airbnb. My only regret was not bringing the box of wine from the van to share it with fabulous new friends… lesson learnt for next time!
SUMMARY: Five mile walk from Glen Feshie estate car park. Remember that bothies get busy so take a back up plan. Similarly, be mindful that you could end up alone. Take all food, gas, stoves and MATCHES, as well as the amount of water you’ll need. Be considerate, don’t arrive in large groups, leave the bothy cleaner than when you arrived!
The first (mini) stream crossing. 
At the first road split, take the path on the left heading up rather than walking right, which is flat. 
Down climb to the second, main river crossing. 
After the river you’ll see this option at the woods. Take the left. The right is a dead end. 
