Quito is surrounded by some of the Andes’ highest peaks, so while we were there we wanted to get a decent climb under our belts. We had met a professional guide by the name of Jose on an organised Cotopaxi tour a few days earlier. We told him of our plans and he recommended Iliniza Norte; a decent peak at 5126m, but one that could be done without too much specialised equipment.
We took Jose’s details and when he quoted us a quarter of the price quoted by a local agency for one, to take us BOTH, we almost snapped his hand off.
We rented all equipment in Quito. There are lots of rental shops in the new town, La Mariscal. We bought food on Jose’s recommendation and packed our bags. We were both SO excited about our first proper mountain climb in South America.
Day one | we took a bus from Playon de la Marin (train and bus station) in Quito to Machachi for $1 / £0.75. We then waited for a bus to El Chaupi, $0.80 / £0.60. From El Chaupi you can either find a hostal or take a pick up to the trail head. Alternatively, if you are keen to hike the entirety of the climb you can start walking! It was extremely challenging, long and hot for me but my partner was set on doing the whole thing on foot. I struggled… oh wow, I struggled but we walked the whole ten miles uphill to the mountain refuge, a really basic little hut where we slept overnight. We arrived just as the snow started! The hut is pretty old and is missing a few bricks so bring your thermals and lots of food.
Day two | after a surprisingly restful night’s sleep we got up, ate and harnessed up – although we didn’t intend to use them, it was “just in case”. Just in case we got stuck up there, I suppose! There was little snow on the ground, but a lot blowing around in the air. Jose said it was the best we could hope for that morning, and so we began our climb to the top. It was cold and slippery, but exhilarating.
We climbed and scrambled and climbed and then…. Unfortunately, at 5040 metres, three quarters of the way there, we were forced to turn around due to the weather. Such a disappointment, but as we all know… mountain weather changes too quickly. Also, we had to be honest with ourselves – if we had made it to the top we wouldn’t of been able to see a darn thing!
We had a quick tea back at the refuge we begun the long walk down. If ten miles seemed long the day before it seemed all the longer now – tired and desperate to get home! Eventually we were down in the town, laden with snacks, collapsed on the pavement waiting for the bus.
Despite the ‘failure’, we had a great couple of days with a fantastic and patient guide. Iliniza Norte, I’ll be back for you one day!
GUIDE CONTACT DETAILS | Jose was a fantastic and extremely fit guide, who charges only a fraction of what the tour companies in town will quote you. We paid $150 / £112 total for two people. If you would prefer to skip public transport and go via rented 4×4, Jose charges $300 / £224. Contact: joritours@hotmail.com
