From Siem Reap we took a bus to Battambang. Cambodians here remained true to form and were really helpful and chatty. We had a great time in this little town, which is strange because there isn’t a whole lot to do!
We spent our first night at Phare Ponleu Selpak circus, which is an arts group set up to help disadvantaged children. They perform at the circus in Battambang whilst training and then move on to tours of Cambodian and beyond. It was fantastic! It was really funny, and had great performances. The big top is set up in a little arts village, where you can have dinner or a drink before the show, or look at the art exhibit and shop. The audience was both tourists and locals, and the difference between uptight Europeans and the laid-back Cambodians was shown by the tourists queuing up before showtime to rush in for the good seats, whilst the Cambodians are very chilled out despite meaning they were sat in seats where they couldn’t particularly see!
The following day we hired a tuk-tuk driver to take us to the Killing Cave and then the Bat Caves. Both are pretty self explanatory and both are actually right next to each other, so you just get the tuk-tuk to one place and walk from there. The Killing Cave was used during the Pol Pot regime. The cave has a very high drop so the perpetrators of supposed crimes were pushed into it, to their deaths. Terrible. You can hire one of the local children to give you some information on the cave. We would really recommend doing this, and wanted to yet they were all busy when we arrived there! From what we saw, the ‘tour’ is free and based on tips, and from what we overhead, they were very informative.
In typical Cambodian style, all the bones are still there at the bottom of the cave for tourists to gawp at, although the site now has a beautiful temple and Buddha on it.
This was a hot, hot day, so once we finished walking down the hill from the cave we sat with coconuts and beers in one of the bars along the street that the tuk-tuk dropped us off at. We positioning ourselves at ‘The Bat Cave’, which is right outside the actual bat cave, from which was going to come loads of bats once dusk came. This bar is elevated and our driver told us that the top floor provided the best view of the bats. I love bats and would have been happy to see just a few so was absolutely AMAZED when FIVE MILLION (!) bats started flying out of the cave. It started with the odd couple pinging from the entrance, then suddenly a stream followed, all heading the same way (which was apparently to feed on insects down at the river). The flow of bats was so fast, and went on for fifteen minutes! I know this sounds like an exaggeration but it’s not. It was incredible. It’s not hard for me to be impressed by wildlife but this was truly one of the best/strangest things we have seen in Asia so far.
The only other main attraction in Battambang is the Bamboo Train. Sadly, this quirky little train ride was out of order when we were there. It seems as though they as taking the original lines up in favour of a larger train line that will service the town better. They are relaying a little section of the Bamboo Train too though, for tourist use so if you plan to visit it may well be open by then!
The next morning it was time to leave Cambodia for Bangkok. One of the most frustrating things I find about travel in Asia is that you often have no choice but to book through agents. You are shuttled from place to place and no one is ever honest about what is happening. On this occasion, we booked the indirect bus to Bangkok through our hotel (the direct bus was fully booked). This was a mistake… make sure you book on to the direct bus when you know you are leaving! We were first of all picked up and driven 20 metres to an office. We waited there before being loaded in to a truck and taken to the bus station. The bus had gone to the office instead of the station (!) so back in the truck to meet it on the road. When the bus finally turns up it is an over-full sleeper bus and we were both in the worst ever moods. This, combined with the craziness of the border Cambodia-side meant for a VERY long trip to Bangkok, but hey, this is Asia, why did I expect different?!
So basically… make sure you visit Battambang, and make sure you get the direct bus out!
GETTING THERE | We took the $6 / £4.30 big bus option from Siem Reap. All the agents in Siem Reap offer transport; big bus, mini-bus or private transfer.
STAY | We stayed at Asia Hotel; £8.30 / £6 for a double room. Room was good, service was okay.. wouldn’t particularly recommend.
TO DO | Circus tickets are available from all hostels and are $14 / £10 each for standard entry. You can walk from town, despite all the tuk-tuks insisting you need a lift.
A tuk-tuk to the Killing Cave/Bat Cave for the day cost $12 / £8.60. Entry to the Killing Cave hill was $2 / £1.45 each.
GETTING OUT | We went on to Bangkok from here. Direct buses were offered at $18 / £13 (make sure you get a direct one!). We ended up on an in-direct bus, priced $14 / £10 per person.
