We arrived in Siem Reap very late at night after another delayed Cambodian bus. Tuktuk-ing to our hostel, my first thoughts were that I would hate this place. There are bright signs and lights everywhere. We passed Burger King and KFC… We had moved from lovely Kampot to neon and tacky Siem Reap and now had to spend Christmas here!
The next day, exploring the town I thought my first impressions were right; absolutely full of tourists and overpriced everything. Apart from draught beer (which you can still get in Siem Reap at $0.50), the prices of Pub Street and the surrounding restaurants are just crazy and wouldn’t be out of place in England. $3.75 for a coffee in Cambodia is just making fools out of the tourists!
After a day sussing the place out we did find some good food options and normal Cambodian prices outside of the main area and I must admit I diddddd start to really like the place!
Along the river (opposite the night market) there is one stall during the day which offers decent noodle dishes for $1. During the evening however, this one stall is joined by about twenty others offering a great range of food for brilliant prices; we had Lok Lak (Cambodian dish), BBQed meat, pancakes, even pizza along there. All the stalls are parked up on scooters just before dusk, there is seating behind each stall and it is a great atmosphere. It’s amazing what can be cooked on the back of a bike!
I know this sounds pretentious when I say it but I do try to eat local food whenever I can (mainly because of the prices rather than because I am being pompous about it!). Despite this, I cannot help but crave a decent coffee in a nice, large cup every so often. We found Tous Les Jours for this, which although is French styled, is Cambodian owned, has fantastic pastries without over the top prices.
As far as things to do; Angkor Wat! We went via bicycle and I have written a separate post about that here.
Siem Reap is really just a town to eat and drink in as a base for the temples with a couple of other places worth visiting;
There’s the cinema, because Star Wars was released while we were there; fantastic prices at $4 for a 3D showing!
Whilst on the way to Angkor Wat we noticed the APOPA Visitor Centre. This charity trains ‘HeroRats’; rats that can sniff out land mines much faster than humans can. It is extremely impressive half day day out. Tours are $5 and reservations must be made in advance via their website.
Also on the way to Angkor Wat we cycled past the Seeing Hands Charity. A non-profit organisation which has trained blind people as masseurs. I did not have the time to visit here but would have gone back if we had had an extra day.
So, in conclusion; Angkor Wat; touristy, expensive if you are not careful, but a decent base while you are exploring the temples!