From experience, attractions of these size don’t often live up to expectations. High price tags, lots of tourists and supposed ‘must dos’ are often a let down but I must say this one deserves the hype.
The prices are… ridiculous. Mainly the increase from 2016 ($20 for a 1 day pass) to 2017 ($37 for a 1 day pass). We had planned to go for a 3 day but being budget travellers we couldn’t afford the $62. The saving grace is that you can buy your ticket the day before and go in at from 5pm that day and then the consecutive day, so you can catch sunrise one day and a full day sightseeing the next.
Again, because of budget we rented bikes for our trip. We rented at 4pm, ready to go straight to the ticket office. The queues made us groan but actually the process was really efficient and quick. On the bikes it was a mad dash to get to Phnom Bakheng for sunset. We headed here because it was recommended in all of the blogs I read but I’d actually recommend giving it a miss and trying somewhere else. They actually only let 200 people up on to the viewing platform at a time so you have to be up there very early. It’s not really possible to get up there for sunset on bikes, but we did get up there to see the lovely coloured views before it got dark.
Cycling through Siem Reap was an adventure in itself! It was funny enough on the way, with all the cargo-laiden scooters going past, but the darkness made a new challenge. I wish I had filmed it. As we got home my bum was already sore and I wasn’t quite feeling the cycling for tomorrow!
The next day, we got up super early and were on the road at 5am, heading for sun rise. Sunrise showed on the weather apps to be at 6.30am. We got there at 5.30am and the views and colours were best around that time, so unfortunately I suggest getting there an hour before sunrise. Again, I had researched and the best view for sunrise was across the lake. I had also watched a few youtube videos showing how awfully busy it was but we actually had a great time there. The locals on the stalls take your coffee order and bring it to you! Goodness knows how they find you in the dark but they do. We found a quiet spot and observed and it was just beautiful…. As long as you aren’t too fussed about photos and aren’t elbowing for the best spot on the water!
The good thing about sunrise is that you are then there in the park nice and early for exploring. The crowds were heading straight in to Angkor Wat so we headed away from there up the road, to Angkor Thom which we had all to ourselves except three other people. This is the temple that they say nature has taken over, although it is still in great shape. The elephant carvings on the outside were fantastic. Beautiful.
Next, we headed a further 5kms on to Ta Phrom. This is the temple with the famous tree shot and the famous Tomb Raider one. The trees seem to have completely destroyed this one, which makes for some fantastic photos. The structure itself is almost gone; the pieces that are there are very newly renovated. Still worth a trip to see how far down those tree roots have buried themselves!
We had taken breakfast with us but were starving coming out of this one. It was only 10.30am but felt like time for lunch. There are some souvenir and restaurant stalls outside of Ta Phrom. I browsed a menu but prices were $5 and up. As I walked away the lady said “anything on menu, $3”. We were starving so we followed her in and this was an absolute bargain for the amount of food we got, and how good it was… I almost paid her full price! (And then remembered I am a budget backpacker.)
We were now heading back to Angkor Wat, but stopped on the way at Bakeng. This was actually my favourite temple of the day. I think this one is also used in Tomb Raider but it is the ‘one with the faces’. So impressive, so cool. I loved this one!
On to Angkor Wat, which was our final temple of the day. At this point it was SCORCHING hot. We had a rehydration coconut before crossing the moat in to the temple. At this point (about 12.30pm) the view across the lake to Angkor Wat was empty so you can get a fantastic photo of the temple reflected in the water.
The main man is huge. Full of intricate carvings, different levels and rooms. There were more people here, as well as lots of monks and monkeys!
I thought by leaving the big one until last we would ensure we were wowed by all the rest too but they were actually all fantastic. All so impressive and so different. Getting your head around these being built back in the 1400s is just crazy. HOW?! I vowed to go home and read all about it. I guess this is where a guide would have been handy.
Overall, cycling around the temples was a great way to see them. The cycling itself wasn’t bad, it was just the early-ness and the heat which made it hard. If you are on a budget I’d definitely recommend it, although not sure how I’d feel having to get up and do it again on for a three day pass!
We arrived home dusty, sweaty and tired, but having had a fantastic day. Angkor Wat is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Cambodia AND ALSO THE WORLD, and it definitely lives up to it.
TIPS |
Ticket Office; get there for 4.30pm because they only sell up to 5pm. Ask which booth to go to because certain booths sells certain day passes. Cash only.
Maps; One moan is that for the hefty price you pay the only thing they offer is a dark photocopied thing which is no use at all. Use the maps.me app to navigate around; it shows each separate temple as well as the route from town clearly.
Bikes; prices ranged from $1 to $8 per bike. We paid $3 for decent mountain bikes. The shop charged us for 24 hour rental rather than the 2 days we had it for, which was great. Note that helmets are non existent in Siem Reap. I hate cycling without one but did on this occasion.
Torch; required for the sunrise and sunset, or at least enough battery to use your phone’s one. We took headtorches which were great when cycling for sunrise and on the way home from sunset.
Note it takes half an hour from town to Angkor Wat; slightly more when you detour to get your ticket on day one.
SUGGESTED ROUTE |
Day one; Town to Ticket Office| Ticket office to Phnom Bakheng (or other sunset locations since the terrace at Bakheng has limited numbers)
Day two; Town to Angkor Wat for sunrise| Sunrise to Angkor Thom | Angkor Thom to Ta Prohm | Ta Phrom to Bayon | Bayon to Angkor Wat | Angkor Wat to HOME (it is possible to include a few further temples in here after Ta Phrom if you have the energy and leg power!)
