The Quilotoa Loop was something we had been really looking forward to since our planning days back in the UK; a 3-day hike ending at an active volcano crater. It looked stunning, and in real life it didn’t disappoint.
We arrived in Latacunga (the base for this hike) from Quito. This is a great place; lots of good food and coffee options.
Day 1 | (6 hours) We caught an early morning bus to Sigchos. We are very used to being the only westerners on the bus, but this time it was full of gringos! More travellers than we have seen so far at any place we have been to. The locals were looking at us curiously and were preferring to stand rather than sit next to any of us.
In Sigchos we started our hike to Insinlivi. We were only just out of the town when a friendly local gave us a map, which was really helpful. There are signs along the way but they are not the clearest, so stop at the campsite just outside of the village to pick up this map. The guy working there is trying to direct you to Llulla Llama hostel so is happy to give you this map to there, gratis.
This day’s hike wound down in to a valley, crossing a river and then up, up, up a really tough verge for a couple of miles before finally arriving at Insinlivi. We had absolutely stunning views of the landscape for entire day. There was almost nothing around except for a few farming houses and locals sorting out their cows! We took lunch with us, which you’ll need to do because there isn’t anything on offer for day one. We picked up bread, tomatoes, tuna etc in Latacunga before heading off and ate it next to the river, which was perfect for a lunch stop.
We have read a lot in blogs and advice sites about angry dogs in South America, and going through one of the villages we encountered the two most vicious dogs we have seen. It isn’t the strays that you need to watch for it’s the ones protecting their property! One ran off and one at least stopped advancing when we threw a rock at them. Yuck!
Beware the toothless old lady trying to charge you $2 / £1.50 to walk past her house on your way down to the river. You can either walk on and detour down the steep hill, next to the sweetcorn field (we were covered in plants after we did this….) or simply walk past her as others said they have done. It is not her property; she is trying to cash in, dishonestly.
When we arrived in Insinlivi we headed to our hostel. We shunned Llulla Llama because all of the huge groups of hikers were headed there. We opted for Hostal Taita Cristobal, which turned out to be the best we have been in so far… an amazing view, a llama called Palmiro in the garden (he loved salt. Not sure how good the salt was for him but they insisted he had some … and when I fed him he did LOVE it!) and a fantastic three course meal. We were the only guests and the family running it were just lovely. It was so cosy to be in there with the fire burning; the nights here get really cold.
Day 2 | (5 hours) We picked up lunch before we set off, at about 9am. Today’s hike to Chugchillan was mainly flat and following the river, but started and ended with big climbs. Both times we were passed by old locals who have no problem with the altitude and manage these trails amazingly! One old man was carrying a huge petrol canister, and one lady checked if I was too tired when I was resting under a tree!
A little school girl skipped past on a muddy uphill and really made us laugh:
“Hola… what’s your names?… Cool. Where are you from? …. Cool. Got any sweets for me?!” Unfortunately we only had sandwiches otherwise we’d have given her all the sweets.
The locals on this day were great. There’s still no English spoken but a lot had painted across their houses “we sell coca-cola!”, “I have water!” trying to make a little money from what has suddenly become a really popular hiking route. Whenever we saw someone they would point out the direction and say “CHUGCHILLAN!” without us asking.
This night’s accommodation at Cloud Forest Hostal left a lot to be desired. There are other places in Chugchillan, but this was the budget option. We did like the standard ‘$15 / £11.25 per person with 3-course meal and breakfast included’ approach from the hostels that we stayed at on this route. The food was great, despite the service!
Day 3 | (5 hours) The final day to Quilotoa! This was the hardest trekking route as we made our way up, up, up to crater level. Again, the scenery changed and we were making our way through cool quirky towns, rather than the farming villages of yesterday. We suddenly found ourselves at the crater, and the view was incredible… huge, bright, big…. it was right before us but looked like it wasn’t real.
We were lucky to get up there in the sunshine because as we walked around it the clouds came in, and completely filled the crater, hiding it from view so much that you’d never even realise it was there. As the clouds then left the crater it became visible again… absolutely beautiful and one of the highlights of our trip so far.
Quilotoa town is understandably expensive to stay at since it is right on the crater, so once we were finished we got a bus out to Latacunga once we had finished. Don’t listen to the locals who insist on giving you a ride to the bus stop… the bus comes right past the archway (walk out of the town, along the main road), every 45 minutes.
This trek was absolutely top of the ‘things we did’ in Ecuador, and close to the top of the list we did in the entirity of South America. It’s getting busier by the day so go quick before the towns develop and the volume of people becomes unbearable!
QUITO TO LATACUNGA | We took the Trolebus to Quitumbe station ($0.25 / £0.20, bargain!). Buses leave every 20 minutes-ish for Latacunga ($1.50 / £1.10) and take about an hour.
STAY IN LATACUNGA | We stayed in Hostal Central (fantastic value at $8 / £6 for a double room, including breakfast). They stored our big bags while we went off to hike and provided complimentary, delicious coffee on our return, despite us not staying there again that evening!
LATACUNGA TO SIGCHOS | When we arrived in Latacunga we booked our tickets for Sigchos the next day at the main bus terminal. They do not go every hour, so I recommend to check out times the day before if you can. $2 / £1.50pp. Takes1hr 45mins.
STAY ON TREK | Each cost $15 / £11.25pp includes 3 course dinner and breakfast:
Hostal Taita Cristobel, Insinlivi
Hostal Cloud Forest, Chugchillan
