We came to Salento from Medellin; seven hours in a decent mini-bus. When we arrived in Salento’s main square on Saturday evening it was so cute. This is coffee region, and where Colombians come for weekend breaks. It’s very picturesque, and there are even more poncho and cowboy hat wearing men than usual.
When we go out to find something to eat we end up at one of the food trucks in the main square. We have a lovely meal of truchua (trout) with patacones (friend plantains) and are pleased with ourselves for finding such healthy-ish, traditional food; this is hard in Colombia! When we get up we realise that every single food truck filling the main square is advertising the same thing! Trucha, trucha, everywhere!
On our first morning in Salento we are up and in a collectivo by 7.30am ready to hike Cocora Valley, which is one of the sights that both of us are most excited about in Colombia. We have seen evidence already of Colombia’s heavy drinking culture, but this time it’s right there in the bus with us. A local couple are also on the collectivo, but with a half empty bottle of ron (rum!). Before the collectivo even left we’d been given shots of rum, and then spent most of the journey refusing “MAS RON! MAS RON!”. The last time we saw that couple they were walking in the opposite direction to the hike, looking for a open bar. This is Colombia.. you can find open bars at 8am!
The hike was nearly six hours, through lots of mud, steep inclines and close jungle. Thank you to our hostel for lending us welly boots; it seems most hostels provide them for you. Our feet were sinking in the mud! Half way round we stopped at a hummingbird sanctuary, to see various breeds and also some racoon-like creatures, who were loving the hot chocolate and cheese that the owner was feeding them. After hours of up, up, up we finally descend on to the giant wax palms that we have come to see. They put everything else on the landscape to insignificance and the view is incredible. This was a beautiful hike takes number one on both of our favourite Colombia things list… so far! (Read my full blog about this hike; HERE.)
That evening we remember a lesson we have learnt many times over the past couple of weeks already; if you don’t eat big at lunch time in Colombia you won’t eat later on. Almost every food option is closed by 7pm and we are forced to a more North American-style restaurant.
Later that night…. Tejo! We had read about Tejo in travel blogs before coming, so when we saw a bar in Salento that had Tejo courts we went in. At first Los Amigos bar was a little daunting, but a lovely Colombian man showed us the rules. SO. MUCH. FUN. This game is just made up for Colombian’s love of drink! Read my more detailed post about it.
After enjoying the Colombian coffee so much we had to experience a coffee tour, so the next morning we head to Don Elias Coffee Farm, the only organic farm around. Don is a bit of a legend around Salento so we REALLY wanted him to take our tour, but it was his charming, English speaking grandson who took us instead. We learnt all about traditional coffee farming which is how the family still manufacture theirs today, and try the most delicious coffee. We now have packs of coffee weighing down our already over-full bags! (More detailed post available on this tour here!)
That evening, we are now making the most of no Colombian food being available and go to ‘Brunch’. The most backpacker-ish place we have been so far, but we are absolutely loving more choice of food and a bit of normality. (If you don’t love fried food and lack of vegetables, you will struggle in Colombia!)
Salento was a fantastic little town and we are glad we made the detour here. We leave Salento for Bogota, still loving Colombia and Colombians!
GETTING IN | Medellin (Terminal del Sur) offer direct buses to Salento. We paid 43,000 COP / £11 and it took just over 6 hours.
STAY | We stayed at Tra La La just off of the main square for 75,000 COP / £19 for a double room. They seem to have changed their rooms now; double rooms with private bathrooms cost 95,000 COP / £24 per night.
TIPS | If you want to eat Colombian then eat your meal before 7pm. If not, there are plenty of Western places open later.
GETTING OUT | Local buses leave the main square frequently throughout the day. We got on one saying Armenia, which is a big hub and can connect to most places. We went on to Bogota from there.
