Our plans to visit Guadalupe came from reading See Colombia’s famous Las Gachas post on the area. We are keen to include ‘off the beaten track’ locations in our list of destinations and this seemed like a fantastic addition.
We took an overnight bus from Santa Marta, and got out at Socorro. This seemed like the closest we could get on a major bus and there wasn’t too much information available to say otherwise. When we got out it became apparent that there were no buses from Socorro to Guadalupe that day but no worries – this is Colombia! – the told us to “sit there”, made a phone call and within the hour a collectivo had arrived to pick us up!
The journey was another two hours in the back of the collectivo, where we met a lovely local guy who actually ended up showing us the entire town of Guadalupe over the next couple of days. Strangely, this wasn’t the only offer of a tour guide we had. The town is extremely welcoming and revelling in their new found fame as a growing tourist destination. We had offers for dinner at people’s homes and offers to go out for beers. How welcoming!
Once in the town, we spent a great day at Quebrada Las Gachas (the red river with the holes that we had gone to see), which was fantastic. The river is stunning, with a beautiful backdrop and makes for great photos. You access the riverside by walking out of the town the way you came in; once you get past the petrol station you’ll see a sign on your right for Las Gachas. Follow the muddy path down and it’s around 20 minutes further along the track. Once you get there you should see a few locals and a couple of sellers.
The holes themselves are so interesting. Some of them are shallow, some are empty, but some are huge and head-height which you can get in! We were with a local so he showed us how some link up to each other like a tunnel under the water, but I wouldn’t recommend checking that out on your own; scary!
Be careful because the rocks around the pools are SO SLIPPERY! This of course makes for a fun water slide but can be a little dangerous.
Aside from the pools, we also went to the other main attraction within the town; walk a little further down the main road, past the petrol station to the where the road splits in two. On your left hand side you’ll see the signs for La Gloria. This is a swimming ‘hole’ which is much more frequented by the locals. It’s a little outside pool, with refreshments and families picnicing. We went there on the same day as we did Las Gachas, where there had been barely anyone. It seemed like the whole town was at the pool instead! Still, worth a visit.
From there, walk back towards to the road and you’ll see an entrance to the river on the right hand side. Here you can actually get in to the river for a more peaceful swim. Beautiful.
DO | Las Gachas, La Gloria and the river swim mentioned above. There are also cave tours etc available in the town but must admit we spent the rest of our time there jogging and hiking through the countryside and exploring the town.
EAT | The best option to eat in the town is Bonanza restaurant. We had fantastic breakfasts here and the owners are lovely. They are the ones responsible for encouraging and organising the new-found tourists in the area.
We also ate at a great and friendly fast food place. If you go up the steps from Bonanza you’ll see the family grilling chicken a few doors up. Chicken, chips, yucca and a drink for less than 6,000 COP / £1.50. Delicious.
GETTING IN | We took a bus to Socorro and then collectivo to Guadalupe. Everyone we met was extremely helpful in showing us where to go.
GETTING OUT | We took a collectivo from Guadalupe to Socorro and then a bus from Socorro to Bucharamanga. Bucharamanga is a travel hub so you can get to most places from there. We headed to Medellin directly from here.
TIPS | The bus station in Guadalupe is just a tiny shop selling collectivo tickets. It’s located in the main square, on the right hand side if you stand with the church behind you.
Also, there is very limited English in this neck of the woods so if you struggle with the Spanish download google translate or a picture dictionary! Although, the local’s enthusiasm to help means you won’t get too lost.
If you are heading to Colombia soon make sure to add Guadalupe to your plans before it becomes a major attraction!
