Tayrona National Park is considered to be one of the most beautiful parts of Colombia. We came back to Santa Marta after Minca and the next morning we were up and flagging down the local bus.
Our first local bus experience was great! As long as you are on the bus route it will stop wherever you are; the bus conductors hang out the side shouting “TAYRONA!”, “TAYRONA!”. You get on, get forced in to a seat, your belongings get passed to whoever else on the bus has space to hold them, and then get passed back to you when you leave. The conductor remembers everyone, where they are going and what they bought on – it’s busy, crazy and entertaining!
It takes about an hour to get from Santa Marta to the entrance. The bus stops right outside and you queue up to pay. It always leave a little bit of a sour taste when attractions are more for foreigners, but that’s the way it is here; 42,000 COP / £10.50 versus 16,000 COP / £4 for nationals.
You’ll get a map and then you need to determine which beach you are going to. On your hike in keep a look out for lovely wildlife. We saw capybara, different species of monkey and a lovely anteater on our walk in!
We headed to Cabo San Juan along with the rest of the world. Be warned that it is a hot, sweaty two hour hike in, whilst carrying all of your supplies! Once you get there you need to register your accommodation interest at the hut at the back of the beach. You then go back at 1pm to pay. It’s a painfully long first come, first served basis, where names are read from the list and given their preference. You wait for them to pay and then the next name is read… and so on. Surely there is a better way than this, particularly because it took over two hours and particularly because demand was bigger than the accommodation available. Therefore, those poor people had to stand there for two hours before being told there are no beds left!
Rant over. We managed to get a two-person tent because it was the only option left. The tents are nice, with a little mattress in each one.
Finally, we got to swim! The water is lovely at Cabo San Juan but be aware this is the only beach you are both swim and stay at, hence it’s popularity.
There are lockers available for your belongings but grab one as soon as you get there if you wish you use them as there aren’t very many. The best time to get one is at 10am when the tents and hammocks are vacated.
We read everywhere how expensive food was within the park. We didn’t think it too bad considering it’s the only option, but it is very, very popular and you wait a long time. We bought bread, tuna, tomatoes etc with us instead.
Overall, we didn’t that the beauty of the park outweighed getting to the park, carrying all of your supplies through the park and waiting for accommodation. Having said that, if I’d have been advised not to go I would probably still do so to see for myself… and the anteater sighting almost made it worthwhile!
GETTING THERE | Buses leave from Santa Marta market (Calle 11 & Carrera 11) and cost 6,000 COP / £1.50 to get to the park entrance. Once paid, you can pay an extra 2,000 COP / £0.50 to take a minibus to the trail start. I recommend doing this because it cuts out time, which is what you are fighting against to make sure you can secure some accommodation!
STAY | We stayed at Cabo San Juan. Accommodation is limited but tents are available for 50,000 COP / £12.50 for two person, or hammocks for 25,000 COP / £6.25 each.
In Santa Marta we stayed at the Drop Bear hostel; it has a pool, is great for relaxing and is perfect for the Park bus. (The bus route goes down Carrera 20, which is right next to the hostel. We walked 2 minutes to Carrera 20, where the bus picked us up).
Drop Bear stored our luggage for free and even let us shower for free when we returned after the Park, desite not having a room that night.
TIPS | Leave Santa Marta early. It is a long journey in and then a long hike to the campsites on your first day.
Bring your passport or a copy of it; it’s needed for entry.
Bring plenty of water. You need enough for the majority of your stay. Water is expensive within the park.
Bring a padlock for the free lockers, and another for your tent if you intend to stay in one.
Bring a headtorch as there is not much lighting in the evening.
Obviously there are no ATMS on site.
BRING MOSQUITO REPELLENT!
FROM THERE | Buses leave from the park entrance and cost 6,000 COP / £1.50 back to Santa Marta. From there you can get to Minca, Cartagena, San Gil, Barranquilla etc.
